GUIDING

        About Guiding.... Article from A whole new wold of scouts and guides.

EDUCATION FOR LIFE Guiding complements the school and the family, filling needs not met by either. Guiding develops self-knowledge, the need to explore, to discover, to want to know. Guides discover the world beyond the classroom, tapping the skills of others to learn, and passing that knowledge on to others. INTERNATIONAL There are recognized Guide organizations and branches in more than 216 countries and territories. GROWING Guiding has never stopped growing since its founding. Today there are more than 25 million members - boys and girls. Guiding has doubled its membership in the last 20 years. Much of the growth is in developing countries. OPEN TO ALL Guiding is open to all, regardless of race or creed, in accordance with the purpose, principles and method conceived by its founder Robert Baden-Powell.

A MOVEMENT FOR YOUTH Guiding is a Movement... on the move. Evolving and adapting everywhere according to local conditions, serving according to local needs. NON-POLITICAL,NON-GOVERNMENTAL Guiding does not and must not represent any political party or organization. Nonetheless, Guides are encouraged to make a constructive contribution to their community, society and country. ALSO A CHALLENGE FORADULTS A chance to help young people. A way to improve the understanding between generations. In their service, adult leaders get valuable training and experience, adding to their personal development. VOLUNTARY Guides and leaders must choose to join Guiding. FUN, WITH A PURPOSE Through recreation, Guiding achieves its purpose to help young people develop physically, intellectually, socially and spiritually.

GUIDING IS... A METHOD:

MAKING A PERSONAL COMMITMENT - to a simple code of living: the Guide Promise and Law. LEARNING BY DOING - active participation, with others. WORKING IN SMALL GROUPS - in patrols to develop leadership, group skills, and individual responsibility. STIMULATING PROGRAMS - progressive activities based on the interests of young people. Activities in contact with nature, a rich learning environment where simplicity, creativity, and discovery come together to provide adventure and challenge.

GUIDING IS... A CODE OF LIVING:

A SPIRITUAL DIMENSION - a commitment to seek the spiritual value of life beyond the material world. A SOCIAL DIMENSION - participating in the development of society, respecting the dignity of others and the integrity of the natural world. Promoting local, national and international peace, understanding and cooperation. A PERSONAL DIMENSION - developing a sense of personal responsibility and stimulating the desire for responsible self-expression.

GUIDES ARE INVOLVED

MEETING REAL NEEDS Guides are involved in a vast number of issues facing the communities where they live. Guides work with others in the community to achieve mutual objectives. They work with friends, neighbors, community leaders and other organizations. Many work on projects of bilateral cooperation between Guides in developing and industrialized countries.

GUIDES ARE INVOLVED IN... Child health Drug abuse prevention Clean water and sanitation Appropriate technology Low-cost housing Literacy Peace education Life skills training Children at risk Integration of the handicapped Family life education Rights of children Food production and agriculture Environmental conservation and education Renewable energies Reforestation Job skills training Youth unemployment Immigrant communities Education about development issues

KNOTS

KNOTS 

By Sulekha Rani.R , PGT Chemistry,KV NTPC Kayamkulam 

1.  WHIPPING

A piece of rope and a piece of string or chord 12 inches long. Use brightly colored string to decorate your jump rope or on a drawstring bag.

1.     Make a loop with one end of the string and lay the loop along the rope with the ends of the string hanging off the end of the rope.

2.     Hold string in place with your left thumb. With your right hand, wind the long end of the string tightly over the loop and around the rope. The short end will be left hanging.

3.     Wind the string around the rope for at least an inch. Wind firmly and closely but do not overlap. When you have wound far enough, tuck the end you have been winding through the loop. Hold it with your left hand thumb so it does not loosen.

4.     Take the other end and pull slowly. The loop will disappear under the winding. Pull until the loop is halfway under the winding. Trim the ends to make a neat finish.

   

 

 

2. REEF KNOT Take a rope end in each hand. Cross the right hand end over the left hand rope. Bend it back under, then forward and up. The ends will change hands. Cross the end now in your left hand over, back, under and forward of the end now in your right hand. The short ends should lie flat beside the long pieces of rope. Pull tight. Unique a square knot by holding the ropes on both sides of the knot and pushing them toward the center. Or take one end and yank it hard toward the center of the knot. Then you can slip the rope ends apart. Many Girls Scouts say this as they tie this knot: Right over left and left over right Makes the knot neat and tidy and tight! Uses This is used for tying together two ends of a rope. It is also the knot, which should be used for tying triangular bandages. It is a good knot for fastening parcels or the ropes round the rolls of bedding. Dhobis use it for typing up the ends of the their bundles. It is a flat knot, does not slip and is easily untied.

REEF KNOT 

     


                                                      

     

 

3. SHEET BEND

Sailors call some of the ropes used on sails, "sheets". A "bend" is a way of making a loop.

1. Take the little rope or cord in your right hand and the big rope in your left hand. Tie a square knot but do not pull it tight. If you want to experiment, pull it tight and see what happens. Then tie another square knot.
2. Cross the short end of the cord over the long part of the cord and stick the end of it down into loop of the rope.
3. Pull long end of cord and long end of rope to tighten.
   

Uses

This is used for tying together 2 ropes of equal or unequal thickness and for tying a rope a loop or for joining ropes to material such as staff, sails or cloth. The loops should be made in the thick rope. 

  

 

4. CLOVE HITCH 

1. Take one end of rope in your right hand. With left hand hold rest of rope across front of post.
2. Pass end of rope around in back of post.
3. Bring it around to front of post. Cross it over long part, making an X. Hold X with left thumb and forefinger.
4. Pass rope to the right again, wrapping it around post below first turn.
5. Push rope end under X, going from left to right so that it comes out between the two turns around post.
6. Pull short end to the right, long end to the left. As long as there is a steady pull on long end the hitch will not loosen.

Practice tying the knot to the left, then tries tying it up and down on a crossbar.

Untie or loosen it by pushing both ends towards the center.

Uses
Use it to fasten one end of a rope around a post or tree; to put up a clothesline or badminton net; to start lashing. Do not use it to hold a moving object, such as an animal, because the moving will loosen the hitch.

 

                        

5. SHEEP SHANK 

 This is useful to the rope when you do not want a cut it or cannot get at the ends, which are fixed. Therefore when you practice making it, do not use the ends of the rope but make half hitches at any convenient distance away from each ends as shown in the diagram. This is also useful to take the strain of any weak bit or rope. It may be used in the home to shorten an electric lamp cord that is hanging too low and is often used to shorten guy-lines on tents.

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       6.  BOWLINE

1. Lay long end of rope in your left hand with your right hand make a little loop in the rope just where you ant the knot to be. The loop must go over the long part of rope. Hold loop in place with your left hand and let the end hang down in front.
2. With your right hand take short end push it up through the little loop. Now you have another loop. Pull the end until this big loop is the size you want to have when you are finished.
3. Pass this end around behind long part of rope and then down through little loop again.
4. Hold long part of rope with your left hand. Hold short end and right side of the big loop with your right. Pull with both hands to lighten.   

                 

Uses

This knot makes a loop that will not slip and is therefore, very useful for rescue work. It is made at one end of a lifeline and thrown out over the water to a drowning man or it may be fastened round any one who has to be lowered from a height from a burning house or into a well. It can be used as a lead for a collarless dog and is especially used for tying animals. When required for lowering anyone the loop should be used as a seat. It is passed over the head and shoulder and the standing part in front of the body is grasped with both hands (though more difficult).

      






                    7.  FISHERMAN KNOT


        This knot is used for tying two wet or slippery ropes. With running end of each rope tie a over hand knot over the other. Pull the standing parts in opposite directions together.
        













    

       8.  ROUND TURN 2 HALF HITCHES

       

This knot is also used to attach a rope to a pole or a tree, when there is tension at the other end. It is safe no matter what direction the pull comes. So it is suitable for typing up a boat or an animal. Make sure that the same direction, i.e. with the short end going over the standing part first. This knot does not easily jam, since the turn round the pole takes the strain while the hitches are being completed and it is the most useful knot for towing a broken-down car.

        
             

          9. TIMBER HITCH

                  A knot to begin the diagonal lashing - using to move logs, to improvise anchor with a heavy stone for hoisting or dragging cylindrical objects, boards etc. for drawing a bundle of sticks, poles etc.

                

LASHING

LASHING 

Sulekha Rani.R, PGT Chemistry, KV NTPC Kayamkulam 

1. Square lashing 

Square lashing is a type of lashing knot used to bind poles together. Large structures can be built with a combination of square and diagonal lashing, with square lashing generally used on load bearing members and diagonal lashing usually applied to cross bracing. If any gap exists between the poles then diagonal lashing should be used.

Square lashing steps

1.    Begin with a clove hitch on the vertical pole beneath the horizontal pole and tuck the loose end under the wrapping.

2.    Wrap in a square fashion (behind the back pole, over the front pole, etc.) about three times around the poles.

3.    Frap two or three times, pulling often to work the joint as tight as possible.

4.    Tie two half hitches around the horizontal pole

5.    Cinch the half hitches into a clove hitch, an additional clove hitch may be added if desired.

When the turns are taken around the vertical pole they should be inside the previous turns. The ones around the cross pole should be on the outside of the previous turns. This makes sure that the turns remain parallel and hence the maximum contact between the rope and wood is maintained. 

OR 

• Tie a clove hitch to upright stick. Be sure a knot is on side of stick and long end of chord is in front of you. Place other stick across upright stick.
• Pass long end of chord down over cross stick and around in back of upright stick. Bring cord to front under cross stick. Then bring up and over cross stick and in back of upright. Bring down over cross stick as in beginning.
• Wind exactly this way about three times. Pull cord tightly as you workout make it lie neatly beside earlier turns.
• Now you are ready for "frapping". Wind the cord about three times between the two sticks to tighten. Pull as tight as you can.
• To finish, make two half hitches around one stick. Or tie the two ends together with a square knot. Trim the ends and tuck them underneath the lashing.

Uses:
To make racks for towels or bathing suits, coat hangers, picture frames.

2. Diagonal lashing 

 

Diagonal lashing is a type of lashing used to bind spars or poles together, to prevent racking. It is usually applied to cross-bracing where the poles do not initially touch, but may by used on any poles that cross each other at a 45° to 90° angle. Large, semipermanent structures may be built with a combination of square lashing, which is stronger, and diagonal lashing.

Baling twine has sufficient strength for some lashing applications but rope should be used for joining larger poles and where supporting people sized weights.

Diagonal lashing steps

1.    Begin with a timber hitch around the juncture of the two poles.

2.    Make three turns in each direction - tightening steadily throughout the turns.

3.    Make two frapping turns, tightening the joint as much a possible.

4.    To end, make two half hitches

5.    Cinch the half hitches into a clove hitch

A lashing stick can be used to safely tighten the joint. Strength will be improved if the first turn is 90° to the timber hitch and if care is taken to lay the rope turns parallel with no crossings. 

 A diagonal lashing is used to secure two poles, which are likely to be pulled, or to spring, apart.

1. Commence with a timber hitch.
2. Make three turns following the directions of the timber hitch.
3. Now make three turns round the other fork.
4. Tighten the lashing with two or three frapping turns, and complete with a clove hitch on any of the poles.

3.  Sheer lashing 

Shear lashing uses two or three spars or poles, 15 - 20 feet (6.1 m) of rope.

Tying: To tie a shear lashing, begin with a clove hitch around one spar. Then wrap the free end of the rope around both spars about seven or eight times. Make about three fraps around the lashing, and end up with a clove hitch on the second spar.

Use:  Tying spars or poles together when they must subsequently be swung apart slightly in a scissors motion (shear legs). Shear lashings may also be used in place of round lashings to join spars of unequal thickness in a straight line

A sheer lashing is used either to form 'legs' from two poles (Type 1) or to join two poles together make a longer pole (Type 2).

Type 1:

1. Start with a clove hitch round one of the (not both) and twist the free end round the rope.
2. Make about ten turns round both poles; do not make these too tight otherwise you will have difficulty with the frapping turns.
3. Make two frapping turns between the poles.
4. Finish off with a clove hitch round the other pole.

Type 2:

1. Place the two poles to be lashed together side by side. They should overlap by at least a quarter of their lengths; otherwise the extended length will not be firm.
2. Two lashings will be needed, both of which are made in the same way. Star with a timber hitch round both poles.
3. Wind exactly this way about three times. Pull cord tightly as you workout make it lie neatly beside earlier turns.
4. Now you are ready for "frapping". Wind the cord about three times between the two sticks to tighten. Pull as tight as you can.
5. To finish, make two half hitches around one stick. Or tie the two ends together with a square knot. Trim the ends and tuck them underneath the lashing.

Uses:

To make racks for towels or bathing suits, coat hangers, picture frames.

 

 

 4. FIGURE OF EIGHT 

   So we come to the Figure of Eight Lashing, which is used to lash three poles together in order to form a tripod of "gyn". Lay the three spars together so that the end of the center spar points in the opposite direction to the ends of the outer spars. The lashing starts with a clove hitch around one of the outside spars at a reasonable distance from the end. Six or seven turns are then taken quite loosely round the spars, working under the over alternately, like a Figure of eight. The lashing is finished off with loose frapping turns and clove hitch on the other outside spar. If the lashing is too tight it will not be possible to bring the legs to form an equilateral triangle on the ground.